Douro Discovery with Viking River Cruises

Portugal has risen in the ranks as a top tourist destination. Its world-class wines have garnered accolades bringing even more attention to this small European country. Portugal, roughly the size of Indiana or Maine, has a diverse geography and climate. Mountainous and river-valley landscapes dominate the north, rolling plains and forests cover the central region, and striking limestone cliffs and beaches hug Portugal’s southern coast. Temps are just as variable and there are seasonal changes.

So, research is important before finalizing your vacation plan. If you don’t mind cooler temps and some rain, late Fall or early Winter would work well. This time of the year, the Quiet Season, is often preferred. There are generally less crowds and travel-related costs are more negotiable. Quiet Season worked well for me given I had ten days to dedicate to an end-of-year holiday escape.

Maximizing my time in the wine region was my ultimate goal. A good friend shared some valuable insight and tips. She and her husband had recently returned from a self-drive tour of Porto and the Douro River Valley region. They loved it. So, I was sold. I knew I did not want to drive the countryside and I didn’t have the motivation to coordinate daily accommodations. I simply wanted to relax, enjoy the scenery and indulge in lots of great food and wine. Cultural immersion was also a priority. When looking at a map, I determined the best way to travel was by water.

The Douro River, Portugal’s celebrated River of Gold, would be my guide. And, the Viking Hemming would be my vessel of choice. Viking River Cruises offered a comprehensive cruise package and itinerary that checked everything on my list, so it was hard to resist. The ship would sail in a northeast direction on the Douro from Porto into Spain. There would be stops along the way and a world of new discoveries that would heighten my Douro River Valley adventure.

Fun Fact: The origin of the name “Douro” is debatable. It sounds very close to the Portuguese word for gold, “Ouro”. Many also say its moniker “River of Gold” references the river’s shimmering hue at sunset. The sun hits sediment beneath the surface to create glistening gold specs that dance on the waves.

The Viking Hemming is a baby longship designed specifically for the Douro. Ships must be able to safely navigate the river’s narrow spots and a series of size-restrictive locks. The Viking Hemming is much smaller than a typical Viking longship; it is 262 feet in length with 53 staterooms accommodating 106 passengers. The crew-passenger ratio is nearly three to one with 33 onboard staff.

It is important to note that the Hemming’s smaller size does limit the public shared areas. There is only one dining and lounge area. And, you will not find a spa or a dedicated library onboard.  In good weather, one can retreat to the exterior decks for more personal space.

For smokers, there is only one designated outdoor area on the top deck.

The Viking Hemming deck plan and detailed stateroom descriptive, including a list of all amenities, can be found online. Balconies are included in middle and upper deck Veranda cabins. Well worth the upgrade.

In short, a baby longship is much like a small boutique hotel that gives a traveler the benefits of unpacking once and having others manage the minutia from start to finish. The Viking team does an amazing job keeping guests informed. The Viking app is available and easily accessible with free onboard wi-fi. And, the printed Viking Daily, delivered to your cabin, outlines the next day’s full schedule, port highlights, history and even the weather. The reception staff is available 24/7.

Viking’s “River of Gold” journey begins in Lisbon with an overnight stay, giving you time to check out the city pre-cruise. The Viking partner hotel, The Corinthia, located north of Lisbon’s shopping and tourist center offers a free shuttle service daily.

Embarkation is in Porto, north of Lisbon. Porto is Portugal’s second largest city and a picture-postcard destination. Viking coordinates the transfer by bus with enroute tour options. Most excursions are a full day ending late afternoon with an easy and stress-free boarding. And, there is time to freshen up and enjoy a cocktail and Porto’s city lights before dinner.

Porto is beautiful historic city, seemingly always bustling with activity. The city deserves a few days to uncover its many treasures. Viking does offer a walking tour excursion that covers key points of interest. But a post-cruise extended stay should be a consideration. This will give you more time to explore the many port cellars and tasting rooms that line Vila Nova de Gaia, a small riverfront area, that faces the larger Porto Ribeira side of the river.

Two favorites tastings that should not be missed: Quinta do Noval & Porto Ferreira

Noteworthy: The most expensive and rarest Port wine in the world is produced by Quinta do Noval.

And, a walk across the Dom Luís, a multi-level arch bridge which spans the Douro, should be on everyone’s bucket list. It is a steep climb to the top level, but the views are amazing! There is so much to see and do in Porto. It is easy to fall in love with this delightful walkable city, a labyrinth of winding streets and quaint neighborhoods. But be forewarned, comfy shoes are a must.

Every season is a chance to celebrate the Douro. I joined a late November Viking cruise, when hillsides are dressed with ribbons of vibrant colors. After the Fall harvest, the vineyards and landscape change from green to a palette of golden yellow, russet red and sunset orange. The cruise ship navigates under Porto’s many bridges before it travels upstream. It sails northward through the Vinho Verde wine region into the prime Alto Douro wine country then moves east further into Spain. High above the river banks, olive and almond trees, terraced vines, and grand wine estates aka quintas are visible from the Viking ship’s vantage point. The region is rich in history and viticulture traditions. For greater wine knowledge and a goldmine of information on the region and the variety of grapes and wines, check out The Wines of Portugal website. An incredible resource.

Fast Facts:  

• The Douro River Valley is the world’s oldest demarcated wine region (DOC) and a UNESCO site. Wine has been produced in the area for more than 2000 years. But it was not until 1756, that the industry was organized and recognized.
• It was Britain’s boycott of French wine during wartime, that led to the popularity of Portuguese wine.  And, the creation of port by fortifying wine with brandy, is also attributed to the Brits. The British big brands like Grahams, Taylor and Croft, live on and have a strong share of the market.
• The Douro River Valley is three times the size of Napa spanning 600,000 acres. Terrain differs. The Douro region is rugged with steeply carved canyons, whereas Napa is nestled in a fertile flat valley between two California mountain ranges.

Approaching and entering a lock along the river can be just as exhilarating as spotting a Grand Quinta Estate on the hillside. I was among the many passengers that raced to the front terrace and upper deck for a closer look and photo opportunities. As the water levels rise and fall, so does the ship. The lock’s towering walls tightly surround the vessel, closing in where the degree of separation is only inches. Kudos to the Captain for getting the Hemming through without a scratch.

The Douro, once a raging river, is now controlled and calmer with the locks in place.

A memorable moment was entering the Carrapatelo Lock, the Douro’s first and most famous lock. It is considered the deepest lock in Europe, with a water level difference of about 35 meters or approximately 115 feet.

Complimentary shore excursions are a true perk when sailing with Viking. The guides are certified and vetted by Viking for expert-level knowledge and courteous communication. The excursions are focused on must-see regional attractions and local experiences.

Guests have the option of booking curated excursions for an additional cost. The Douro cruise available excursions were many and unique, ranging from a culinary tasting tour to a guided visit to a historic castle fortress. Something for everyone. All excursions can be booked in advance.

I must admit, there was not a day that I slept in, given most tours departed in the morning. Travel time varied from 30 minutes to several hours depending on the excursion. But no complaints. Passengers were transported in the comfort of a Viking River bus with a guide on hand to provide commentary, offering interesting insights and fun facts. Upon arrival, we stayed connected with the guide through an easy-to-use Quietvox listening device.

The Hemming’s coffee/tea station, always stocked with fresh pastries and cookies, was a welcomed treat for a much-needed caffeine-fix after each early morning outing.

A visit to iconic places like the Mateus Palace and Gardens, and the medieval city of Coimbra, home to Portugal’s oldest university, elevate the overall cruise experience. Photo Slide Show Below:

A few unforgettable Viking Excursion highlights:

• Lunch at a local Coimbra restaurant feasting on authentic dishes like Bacalhau á Brás, a salted cod and potato frittata, while being serenaded by Fado music and song.
• A visit to Porto’s São Bento Train Station to view the finest examples of Portuguese “azulejos”, intricate hand-painted blue-hued tiles, showing historical and folk life scenes from the region.
• Walking up the 600+ step grand baroque-style outdoor staircase with beautiful tiled terraces to the entrance of Lamego’s Our Lady of Remedies Catholic Church, a pilgrimage site.
• Enjoying a refreshing local beer break near the grounds of Castelo de São Jorge while taking in a breathtaking view of Lisbon.
• A visit to Quinta da Avessada, a renowned and historic working wine estate, located in the central Douro region at its highest point, nearly 2000 feet. The winery produces a sweet fortified wine, Moscatel de Favaios. A tasting was included. And, many other wines were enjoyed during a truly sumptuous multi-course lunch.
• A day-trip to the University city of Salamanca, brimming with stunning architecture and two beautiful Cathedrals.

When not exploring on land, guests were treated to special presentations and live entertainment most evenings in the lounge. A special port wine tasting and a lively Spanish folk show featuring flamenco dance troupe, SoleArte, were among my favorites. The engaging demo by Executive Chef Maik showcasing Portugal’s most famous custard puff pastry, Pastel de Nata, dating back to the 18^th Century, and an Afternoon Tea Time were also crowd-pleasers. One can also enjoy a port talk, lecture or entertainment in the lounge from the comfort of your room through a television live-cam link, which I did on several occasions.

A Special Onboard Find: Grahams White Port. Mix with tonic for a light and refreshing cocktail. I have yet to find a bottle in Florida, so be sure to snag one before you leave Portugal. Retail: $25+

Dining on Viking does not disappoint. Muti-course meals with specialty dietary options are always available. And, I never felt the need to venture off ship for a more elevated culinary experience. Viking features many local dishes, from seafood to steak, with a focus on regional wine-pairings and locally-sourced fresh food and ingredients. Menus changed daily and were always posted for preview.

And, unlike some other cruise lines, lunch and dinner service includes a variety of wines, beers and soft drinks at no additional cost. There is even champagne on hand at the breakfast buffet for a morning mimosa. For those who want full access to more premium beverages including liquors, pre-paid packages can be reserved. I opted for the package so I could enjoy Portugal’s many fine wines and aged ports any time of the day. A well-deserved guilt-free indulgence. My cruise mantra: let the wine flow like the river.

Even discerning foodies will be impressed with the food quality, selection and Viking service.

The cruise was an all-encompassing enriching experience. It is difficult to share every memorable moment. Travel has a way of setting you free from the constraints and redundancy of daily life. I am thankful for my amazing Portugal adventure.

My hope is that I have inspired you to explore the possibilities.

Still need a nudge? Check out the Viking-produced promo video with cruise highlights on the Viking website or via this Vimeo Link. It is under two minutes and has some excellent visuals.

Of course, the bottom-line burning question comes down to “Why Viking”?

The answer is simple when understanding and managing your expectations. A good decision is made when evaluating risk, reputation and value. How much does that dream vacation mean to you? Are you willing to settle for less?

Level of comfort and customer service is subjective. Reviews can provide mix of perspectives. But value and reputation should be transparent. This is where Viking shines. Viking continues to be a leader in the industry offering an enriching travel experience at a fair price.

Viking’s inclusive travel value proposition is designed to go above and beyond with a cruise fare that covers all the bases and more. NO to nickel and diming and hidden fees. And, the positive reviews are many. All the more incentive to book a cruise with Viking.

To learn more about the Viking difference, visit Viking’s official website or reach out to a Viking Cruise consultant for guidance and current special offers. Boa Viagem!

Photos courtesy of S.Gaspers.