Connemara Calling

The Emerald Isle is a mysterious and beautiful place brimming with history, natural wonders and lots of magical stories. And, one is sure find a bit of Craic (Irish fun) around every corner and in every local pub. My summer travel took me back to the West of Ireland to explore Galway and Connemara, my mother’s ancestral home.

The region, part of Tourism Ireland’s branded Wild Atlantic Way, offers visitors stunning vistas of fields and valleys of green and rugged coastline. A shroud of haunting mist creates a dream-like state almost every day much like a movie special effect. And, rain is Irish sunshine that is said to be good for the soul!

Sheep still freely graze the land; the remains of Castles and Abbeys dot the scenic countryside and avid fly-fisherman can be spotted wading the rivers for a fresh catch. 

The awe-inspiring picture postcard imagery will leave you transformed.

Beyond each bend, one will find a small village. Most measure only one to two city blocks and will likely not have a supermarket or hardware store. But you are certain to find a pub for a pint, served up with lively conversation, and a tourist shop with woolen treasures.

Larger cities like Galway have worked to keep a level of authenticity and charm. The quaintness still remains but modern world encroachment is a reality. You will find shopping centers and big box stores like Aldi just outside of Galway’s city center.

Galway, though only one twelfth the size of Dublin, is a bustling vibrant river city of nearly 100,000 residents and growing. The University of Galway keeps the city young, eclectic and international with a steady annual influx of thousands of students. But it is tourism, Ireland’s number one industry, that is the driving economic force. And, Galway and the West of Ireland is eager to garner its fair share.

Galway has proudly earned the title of “Ireland’s Festival City” given its full and robust calendar of events ranging from film to horse racing. I was lucky to experience the fanfare firsthand. The Galway International Arts Festival, a favorite summer headliner packed with music, art exhibitions and more, was in full swing during my visit. Timing your trip with a festival will provide endless entertainment options.

Galway makes for an easy home base to explore and experience the West of Ireland’s many attractions. Daily bus, private-car and ferry tours to Connemara, the Cliffs of Moher, the Burren, the Aran Islands and other top sites are readily available. But be sure to reserve a day or two to enjoy the city.

A “Hop-On Hop-Off” double decker bus tour is a best bet to get a bird’s eye view of Galway city highlights. The Galway Cathedral and the Salt Hill beach promenade were among my top picks. I also highly recommend a guided walking tour on your first day to provide a bit of historical perspective. Lally Tours, a family-owned company, has a convenient kiosk center in Eyre Square aka JFK Memorial Park that can assist in booking tours directly.

Finding the best place to stay can always be challenging but is critical to a relaxed enjoyable visit. Many considerations come into play from price to location. Galway has a mix of accommodations from small B&Bs to large hotel properties. I generally seek out a boutique and unique experience.

I chose the Hardiman Hotel on the edge of Eyre Square. The Hardiman’s rich history, impressive past guest list and central location were hard to resist and did not disappoint. This Hardiman YouTube video offers a nice introduction.

Fast fact: Charles and Annie Lindbergh stayed at the hotel property (formerly named the Great Southern Hotel) in October 1933.

An interesting detailed historic timeline can be found on the hotel website.

Despite several name changes, the Hardiman retains its refined ambiance and level of service. I found the front desk and hotel staff to be pleasant and welcoming. Guests can opt for a Classic room, Deluxe room or Suite. Deluxe rooms, recently renovated, reflect a mix of old-world charm and modern comfort, with traditional decorative touches like high ceilings and tall windows. My Classic guest room was more contemporary in design and did not have air conditioning. All worked out well for my stay given the moderate summer temps. The Hardiman Suites are the only accommodations with a/c and are at a premium.

“Victorian Grace with the best in Irish Hospitality”

In the height of season (which for Ireland can be 10 out of 12 months), expect to pay no less than $250 for a basic hotel room in Galway. Some rates do include a hearty breakfast buffet, which is the perfect way to start the day.

A quiet well-appointed clean room is also among my priorities. The Hardiman delivered, meeting my needs and expectations from the private bath with a nice updated shower to an in-room flat screen tv.  I even found a USB charging outlet for my cell phone at my bedside.

Be forewarned, all hotels are not the same. In Galway, location is important for a good night’s sleep. Avoid hotels above and adjacent to popular pubs or on busy streets where noise can be an issue.

Hotel Fast Facts:
Rooms: 103 (19 Suites with a/c) – varied sizes with distinctive design elements
Rates: Seasonal; $250-$500+ USD
For more information & reservations, visit the Hardiman official website

Room/Hotel Amenities:
• Complimentary Wi-Fi
• Complimentary Bottled Water
• Afternoon Tea Service Available
• Oyster Bar
• MacNeill’s Gastro Pub with Live Music (Wed-Sat)
• Meeting & Conference Space
• In-Room Hair Dryer & Iron/Board
• In-Room Coffee/Tea Maker
• In-Room Flat Screen TV
• Room Service
• Gaslight Brasserie Restaurant (Full Irish Breakfast or Dinner)

Best Bests/Tips:

Lally Tours: Local and reliable tour operator. I enjoyed the Lally walking tour and several day tours. Be prepared for rain on any tour; pack a rain coat, hat, umbrella and wear comfortable (preferably water/bog proof) shoes. Average Tour Costs: $20-$70 USD

Galway City Museum:  Adjacent to the Spanish Arch, a remnant of Galway’s ancient wall. A treasure chest of historical, cultural artifacts and ancestral stories. Several of the museum’s special exhibition panels can be viewed online. Highlights include Surrounded by Stone, Keepers of the Gael, The Corrib and The Rising-War of Independence-Civil War Collection.  Free Admission. Closed on Mondays.

Trad on the Prom: A fabulous traditional Irish Music & Dance Revue. A one-of-a-kind Irish Cultural Experience. Not to be missed! Just a short cab ride or easy direct bus ride (2 euros one way) from Eyre Square to the performance venue location in Salt Hill. Trad on the Prom shows run every Sunday, Tuesday & Thursday at 8:30 pm. Seasonal: May thru September. Check out a bit of the action-packed performance on YouTube.

Salt Hill Promenade: Salt Hill is a seaside village on the outskirts of Galway. Local quirky attractions range from an aquarium to an amusement park. A mini-Irish version of Coney Island! The seaside promenade runs along the coastline of Galway Bay for about two miles. Seaweed dresses the beach rocks and sand. This beautiful walk stretches from Salt Hill’s Blackrock Diving Tower (where locals enjoy the water year-round no matter frigid temps) to Claddagh Quay minutes from Galway’s touristy Shop Street/Latin Quarter area. Depending on your pace, an easy 30–45-minute walk

Claddagh: This long-lost fishing village on the edge of the ancient walls of Galway is the starting and returning spot for your promenade walk. Claddagh’s water views are serene and nostalgic. One can almost imagine a bustling fishing dock and Galway Hookers sailing the open bay. The Claddagh Ring’s love story dominates the village’s historical significance. Do not miss the opportunity to secure a ring of your very own or perhaps a matching pair to honor true friendship and lasting love.

River Cruise:  The Corrib River runs through Galway City. The Corrib Princess offers daily guided sightseeing cruises, private evening cruises with dinner and entertainment. The Corrib Princess departs from Woodquay dock, just north of the Galway Cathedral, cruising to Lough Corrib, the largest lake in the Republic of Ireland.

Shopping: Most shops, including tourist shops, close by 5pm or 6pm (pub time in
Ireland). There are few store malls with later hours. Shop Street in Galway’s Latin Quarter is the main thoroughfare and the destination for tourist activities.

Pub Life: Pubs are open up by early afternoon with live music and bar fare starting around 6 pm. Lots of great finds including Taaffes and Tig Coilli can be discovered on Galway’s Shop Street.  

Road Travel: Driving is on the other side of the road and can be scary at times. The roads are narrow, winding and slick when wet. And, many of the scenic roads do not have a shoulder at all. So that makes backing up, to accommodate an oncoming bus or car, a much-needed talent for safe passage. Walking or bike and bus travel are much safer alternatives or hire a private car. Experience Ireland offers custom and private family tours. I had the pleasure of meeting Trudy with Experience Ireland during my visit to Ashford Castle in Cong. She was leading a genealogy-themed tour for a family from Florida. Judy shared that private tours can be affordable option when traveling with parties of 6 or more. I was lucky to have access to an expert guide for a few days. My younger brother, now living in Ireland, treated me to a personal tour of Connemara which included a visit to family gravesites on Omey Island. The breathtaking island views only heightened my emotions and connection to the land and its people.

Castle Visit:  A journey to the beautiful Ashford Castle in nearby Cong (a 40–45-minute drive from Galway) is well-worth the visit. Ashford is ranked one of the top luxury castle resorts in Ireland. In 2024, Ashford Castle in County Mayo, Ireland was ranked second in the Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards for the top five resorts in the UK and Ireland. The castle’s sister property, The Lodge at Ashford Castle, was ranked fourth in the same category. Enjoy tea service, a boat tour or explore the expansive grounds and special outdoor sport activities like clay pigeon shooting and horseback riding. Or, why not indulge in the royal treatment with dinner and an overnight stay. A stroll to into Cong from the Castle is a must. Cong is well known for the film, the Quiet Man with John Waye and Maureen O’Hara. You will find quaint shops, a statue honoring the movie, ruins of an Abbey and Cong Woods’ Park. Be sure to visit Cong’s St. Mary’s church to see stunning stained-glass work by famed artist Harry Clarke.

Connemara beckons to me across the Atlantic to return once more. The West of Ireland will not be forgotten. A gentle rain amidst a forest green will always be a reminder of my roots.

For all your Ireland trip planning needs, visit the official Ireland Tourism website

Check out the site’s practical guide page for general tips.

Photos courtesy of Lally Tours and S.Gaspers